Monday, July 11, 2005
Afghan Lathe as a web page
Adrian is kindly hosting the "Afghan Lathe" document as a web page so you can pop over for a quick browse. This is the version that shows how to use a power drill as a lathe, and construct a heated RepRap nozzle with interchangable nozzle ends:
http://reprap.org/Downloads/Afghan_lathe/Afghan_Lathe.html
Vik :v)
http://reprap.org/Downloads/Afghan_lathe/Afghan_Lathe.html
Vik :v)
Comments:
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A couple of suggestions:
If you can, use a "combined centerdrill/countersink" or a "center drill" to start the hole. They are stiff and will not wander off center.
Brass shouldn't need any lubrication whatsoever. What it does need is modification of the drill's cutting lips. You want to stone a small flat on each of the cutting lips parallel to the drill's axis. This will keep the bit from grabbing.
If you are turning aluminum then WD-40 or kerosene is a good lube, for steel use heavier oil, such as pipe cutting oil (easily found in hardware stores in the U.S., not so sure about the U.K.)
Another techniques for turning down work held in a drill is to grip the rotating piece with some slip-joint pliers - the hardened edges will turn down the metal.
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If you can, use a "combined centerdrill/countersink" or a "center drill" to start the hole. They are stiff and will not wander off center.
Brass shouldn't need any lubrication whatsoever. What it does need is modification of the drill's cutting lips. You want to stone a small flat on each of the cutting lips parallel to the drill's axis. This will keep the bit from grabbing.
If you are turning aluminum then WD-40 or kerosene is a good lube, for steel use heavier oil, such as pipe cutting oil (easily found in hardware stores in the U.S., not so sure about the U.K.)
Another techniques for turning down work held in a drill is to grip the rotating piece with some slip-joint pliers - the hardened edges will turn down the metal.
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